Does Metal Halides Really Make a difference?
I have a 90 gallon reef tank, currently running 368 watt compact florescents fixture . I want more lighting so I can get some really nice corals. Is there a really big difference between metal halides and compact florescents?
I was going to get a second 260 watt CF fixture on ebay for $125 or should I spend the money and get a 760 watt metal halide/CF fixture for $375 on ebay or is 760 watts too much lighting for my tank?
There’s more than one difference between these. One “negative” about MHs is the amount of heat they produce. These can almost require the addition of a chiller for your tank. And because of the heat and light penetration, you shouldn’t use a glass or plastic cover (at least not one that’s not a part of the actual lighting unit) between the lights and the tank – this increases evaporation, and the potential for “jumpers”. Another “negative” is the cost of operation (the higher wattage = more electric used to run them).
One advantage they’d have for you over CFs or T-5s is that the light from MHs penetrate deeper into the tank. That’ll make a difference in placement and survival of corals, anemones, and clams. Another difference is that MHs produce UV wavelengths. You want to shield the lights from people touching them, or being exposed to the light for too long of a period of time.
The UV may actually benefit the photosynthetic inverts. I’ve had a few people asking about sickly anemones (they were using poor lighting for them) that added reptile lights they had on hand and had the anemones perk up within days. I had a discussion on this topic with another user who is into “experimenting” with equipment, and he said he’d tried this and also noticed the effect. I’m currently in the middle of my own “experiment” with a pet store rescue anemone, and a ESU slimline UVB fixture added to Compact fluorescents, and I’ve already noticed a difference as well.
The UVB is the main reason not to use glass or plastic between the light and water – this will absorb any UVB rays produced. There are special types of plastic/glass that will allow UVB to be transmitted, but these tend to be expensive – and they also trap heat in the tank.
A “concern” about their use for you would be the greater light intensity will mean giving your organisms a period of acclimation to the brighter light (and you can “over-light” the tank). If you’re using a suspended system, start this a little higher, and lower it over a few weeks. If using a type that would sit over the tank on “legs” use something to prop the hood a little higher and move it down in steps – make sure whatever you sit it on is secure, and won’t leach chemicals into the tank if it gets wet. Otherwise, you may need to adjust the placement of organisms so they’re lower in the water to reduce the intensity, and corals/anemones don’t appreciate being moved. You might also decrease your photoperiod by a few hours during this acclimation period.
That said, I would think that 760 would be overkill for your tank. Usually 175 watts would be enough for 4 square feet of surface area (48 inches x 12 inches), and you tank would only be 6 inches wider.
Another possibility for you would be to look for a combination system that would include a low-wattage MH with compacts or T-5 tubes. You would keep the compacts/T-5s on the entire day, but add the MHs in for 3-4 hours in the middle of the photoperiod (simulating “noontime” sun). to give everything in the tank a boost. It would save on the electric bill, and not have as much heat buildup. (some examples: http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/group/10952/product.web , http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/group/23718/product.web )
Besides Ebay, you might extend your search to include Aquabid (http://www.aquabid.com/ ) to increase the possibilities of what you find.
175 watt metal halide vs 110 watt LED reef lighting
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*2 Pack Double Ended 150Watt 14000K HQI Metal Halide Reef Coral Aquarium Bulb R7S By CBconcept $19.99 Metal Halide Lamp Characteristic: Crispy brilliant white lighting |